newbury-exhibit/markers/BUILD_INSTRUCTIONS.md

Building a Newbury Crest (marker ID 0)

A "Newbury Crest" is the physical anchor marker. It has two parts:

1. Detector core — a 6×6 grid of flat black & white tiles. This is the part the camera reads. It is an ArUco 4×4 marker (1-cell black border + 4×4 data), so it must be exact.
2. Colour-wheel ring — a decorative 1-tile-wide border of Red / Yellow / Blue around the core. Purely cosmetic (Hidden Side theme); the detector ignores it.

See crest-01_buildplan.svg for the full picture and crest-01_buildmap.json for the raw grid.

The detector core (6×6) — ID 0

# = black tile, . = white tile. Build it in this exact orientation; the single yellow corner dot in the app shows which corner is the reference (top-left here).

# # # # # #
# . # . . #
# # . # . #
# # # . . #
# # # . # #
# # # # # #

• Outer ring is all black (the ArUco quiet border) — do not substitute colours here.
• Use flat tiles, not plates with exposed studs — studs cast shadows that hurt detection.
• Suggested scale: one 2×2 tile per cell = 16 mm cells → 96 × 96 mm core. (For a crisper read at distance, go 2×2 studs per cell using four 1×1 tiles — finer edges.)

The colour-wheel ring

Wrap one tile-row of Red/Yellow/Blue around the 96 mm core, cycling R→Y→B. Keep it outside the black border (it can touch the black border directly — black separates it from the data).

• Red #F65151 · Yellow #FFF35D · Blue #529EFF
• These are the exact Hidden Side ghost-lure gradient tops, so it reads as the colour wheel.

Mounting

• Mount flat on a black baseplate, flush and rigid (no warping — a curved marker breaks pose).
• Matte tiles beat glossy if you have the choice; glare is the main real-world enemy.
• Place at "street level" where a phone naturally frames it as part of the scene.

Test before you commit

1. Print crest-01_aruco0.svg at ~100 mm and tape it down.
2. Open ar-test.html on your phone (over HTTPS), point at it.
3. HUD should show id: 0 and a blue wisp should hover above it.
4. Try angles, distance, and your real exhibition lighting. If it holds lock well, build the LEGO version with confidence; if glare is an issue, matte it down.